Sewing machine



y 1942- J. A. CORDEAU 2,284,514

SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 13, 1940 Patented May 26, 1.942

SEWING MACHINE Joseph A. Cordeau, Portland, Maine Application December 13, 1940, Serial No.

Claims.

This invention relates to sewing or stitching machines and consists in a trimming device for machines constructed and arranged to form a moccasin type of seam or any other seam in which the parts of the work are united in angular or ridge-forming relation.

The upper of a moccasin type shoe comprises a top piece or plug, similar to that of an ordinary moccasin, and a side piece or vamp. It is the practice to bevel the edges of the top piece and vamp, bring them together at about a 60 angle with the bevelled edges forming a common apex and then form a line of stitching across the angle of the apex just inside the line of contact within the bevelled edges of the pieces. A machine for forming this type of seam is disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,975,914, granted October 9, 1934, on an application of Fred Ashworth,

After the seam has been completed in the manner above outlined, it is desired to trim off the apex so that the meeting edges of the two parts of the shoe shall present a flat raw edge appearance instead of a projecting 60 ridge. -T'he purpose of my invention is to provide a trimming device by which it is possible simply and inexpensively to perform the desired trimming operation progressively and simultaneously with the sewing operation. The advantages of this proccdure are obvious. It improves the economy and reduces the time of manufacture as well as improving the accuracy of the trimming operation. The appearance of the work is thereby improved and the danger of a damaged seam is eliminated. All this is accomplished in accordance with the present invention without requiring any additional labor on the part of the sewing mchine operator or demanding any exceptional skill on his part in the handling of the work.

With these ends in view an important feature of my invention consists in a V-shaped work support and a complementary former or presser for positioning two pieces of leather at an angle with meeting in a common These and other features of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from the fol- The trimming knife is so located work support showing the trimming knife in section and the operating position of the work with relation thereto,

Fig. 3 is a view of the complete work support and trimming device as seen from the end at which the work enters,

Fig, 4 is a side view of the device shown in Fig. 3, and

Fig, 5 is a similar view of the device as seen from below.

In the drawing the invention is illustrated as embodied in a sewing machine which,

said Patent No. 1,975,914 above identified. This machine is a curved hooked needle machine having its thread handling devices constructed and arranged to form a lockstitch. The curved hook needle of the machine is indicated at 2, the curved awl at 4, the rotary hook (which casts the awl through suitable connections operated from shaft of the machine. operates in a fixed vertical plane while the awl is arranged to move laterally or horizontally while in the work in order to feed the work between successive actuations of the needle. One of the levers 26 by which the awl carrier is actuated for this feeding movement is shown in Fig. 1. The line of feed with respect to the work support is indicated by the dash lines in Fig. 4. The transverse positions of the needle 2 and the awl 4 are indicated in this figure.

The machine is herein shown as provided with a horn I2' carrying at its upper end a wedgeshaped presser or inside former l3 having workengaging walls converging at substantially 60 to the vertex.

The work support has a shank portion I4 which is secured to the under side of the bracket ID by a clamping screw II and a dowel pin 9. The shank merges into a right angular extension I5,

The needle or apex line determined by I point at which the and needle.

The work support includes also a detachable plate or bar l8 similar in contour to the lateral extension l5 and separated therefrom at its rear end by a thin spacing piece H. The bar i8 is provided at its outer end with an inclined work-engaging face l9 similar to the work-engaging face l6 but oppositely inclined with respect thereto, and correspondingly slotted for the passage of the awl and needle. The bar I8 is detachably clamped in position by a clamping screw which is located behind the work-engaging faces l6 and IS, a clamping screw 2| threaded into the end of the shank l4 and a intermediate dowel pin 22. Between the detachable bar I8 and at the extension I5 of the work support is clamped a flat straight trimming knife 23. The knife is arranged at an angle of about to the line of feed, being bevelled on its under face and projecting upwardly so that its cutting edge is located in the line of feed below the vertex projecting to intersection the inclined work-engaging faces l6 and I9. These faces include an angle of substantially 60, corresponding to the angle of the presser l3, but do not actually contact with each other, being separated by the knife 23 and the spacing piece l1. In the work support herein shown there is a tween the opposed inner faces of the two parts l5 and 18 of the work support. These faces are grooved to receive the edges of the trimming knife 23 and are cut out or relieved at both sides along the top of the trimming knife so as to provide a free exit passage for the strip or thread 333 of material trimmed from the apex of the seam. As clearly shown in Fig. 4 the operative edge of the knife is located immediately behind the work is disengaged by the awl at the end of the feeding step, this being the same point at which the needle enters the work. Accordingly the work is positively controlled by the awl as it is fed to the trimming knife and during the trimming operation.

It is believed that the operation of my improved mechanism will be apparent from the foregoing description but it may be summarized for convenience as follows: In Fig. 2 the top piece or plug 30 and the side piece or vamp 32 of a moccasin type shoe are shown as bevelled at their meeting edges and presented in operative position to the work support which is here shown without its outer part l8. The work is located with the point at which the stitching is to begin in line with the needle and between the slots in the converging faces 16 and IQ of the work support. The wedge shaped presser conforms the work accurately to these faces, as shown in Fig. l, and their meeting bevelled edges extend in a 60 ridge into the space between the parts 15 and I8 of the work support. The meeting edges may or may not be temporarily ce mented together. When the machine is started the awl passes through the work below or within its apex angle as shown in Fig. 1 and then moves laterally positively feeding the work from. the awl position 4 to the needle position 2 as indiclear space of about 1 5" becated in Fig. 4. In this feeding movement the vertex angle of the seam is trimmed off progressively by'the blade of the knife 23 and the thread or strip removed by the knife passes behind or above the knife through the clearance space provided for it and out of the machine. The desired flat type appearance is'thus imparted to the seam as suggested in the work at the left side of Fig. 2.

Having thus disclosed my invention and described one specific embodiment thereof for purposes of illustration but not in any limiting sense, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A stitching machine for forming and trimming a moccasin seam, comprising a work support having faces converging toward a common apex, an awl and needle operating across the angle formed by said converging faces upon work positioned by the converging faces of the work support, and a trimming knife crossing said angle and located nearer to the said apex than the path of the needle.

2. A stitching machine for forming and trimming a moccasin seam, comprising a work support having faces converging toward a common apex, a needle and an awl operating across the angle formed by the converging faces upon work positioned by the converging faces of the work support, the awl being movable to feed the work between stitches, and .a stationary trimmirrg knife crossing said angle nearer the. apex than the feeding path of the awl.

3. A sewing machine for uniting the beveled edges of the top part and of the side part of a moccasin having, in combination, a work support having work engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of feed, forming an apex to support the bevel edges of the top part and of the side part closely in contact and alinement, stitch-forming devices comprising a needle movable across the apex of the angle formed by said work engaging surfaces of the work support, a horn, a presser mounted on the horn and having work engaging surfaces parallel to the surfaces of the work support at the lines of contact to cooperate with the surfaces of the work support to hold the side part and the top part in position for the passage of the needle, and a trimming knife located between the angularly disposed surfacesof the work support.

4. In a stitching machine for forming and trimming a moccasin seam, and work support having a shank merging into a right angular extension presenting an inclined work-engaging face, a detachable bar having an oppositely inclined work-engaging face, and a trimming knife, clamped between said extension and bar with its edge crossing the includedangle of said inclined faces.

5. In a stitching machine for forming and trimming a moccasin "seam, a combined work support and trimmer having a shank merging into a lateral extension, a clamping bar disposed parallel to and spaced from said extension, and a trimming knife clamped between the bar and the extension, the said extension and bar pre-' senting work-engaging faces including an acute reentrant angle and the knife being adjustably located with its edge crossing their included angle at a predetermined distance from the vertex of said angle.

JOSEPH A. CORDEAU.

a combined trimmer 

